Mozzarella in myrtle, “mozzarella int ‘a murtedda“, is a fresh pasta filata cheese in the shape of an elongated tongue obtained by processing whole, raw cow’s milk. The grouped cheeses are wrapped in myrtle/mortella branches, and the bundle is tied at the ends to form the traditional “mozzarella bouquet”.
This was the packaging and transport system in the past. The smooth, non-porous leaves also gave the mozzarella its characteristic myrtle aroma.
Spread over seven hectares, San Basilio farmhouse is located in the municipality of Salento, in the province of Salerno, in the Cilento National Park. This hilly area stretches from 200 to about 500 metres above sea level.
Approximately 20 mestizo cows are reared in the wild, from crosses with Alpine Brown and Jersey breeds. In addition to the about seven hectares on the property, 40 hectares are under the lease, mainly uncultivated land but rich in wild grasses and low Mediterranean scrub. The diet is supplemented with self-produced hay from wild forage.
The cows are provided with shelters to protect themselves from the weather and facilitate separation from their young for milking operations, who graze with their mothers throughout the day. Horn mutilation is not practised on young cows. Sanitary treatments are carried out by veterinary surgeons only when necessary.
The whole raw cow’s milk obtained from a single morning and daily milking is brought to a temperature of 38° C, and calf rennet paste is added. After about 30 minutes, the curd is broken up to the size of a kernel of corn using the traditional “mènatora“, a long, rectangular-shaped wooden paddle. The curd is compacted, making it easier to drain off the whey, and is then left to acidify for 12 to 24 hours, depending on the time of year and temperature.
Once the right acidification/ripening point has been reached, the curd is cut into thin strips and worked by hand in boiling water, stirring and massaging until it is perfectly stretched. It is then “chopped” into pieces of about 100 g and, still in hot water, they are continued to be processed, giving them their characteristic elongated tongue shape, and are then left to cool in the water, after which they are salted in brine. Finally, they are bundled and packaged, wrapped in myrtle branches, the traditional “mozzarella bouquet”.
Mozzarella in myrtle can best be enjoyed several hours after production. Either as is, perhaps with a “drizzle” of extra virgin olive oil, or accompanied by vegetables, cured meats and preserves.
Mozzarella should be opaque white, tending towards straw yellow or ivory, compact and firm, dry and without liquid.
The aroma has slight lactic and myrtle scents. The taste reveals hints of yoghurt and butter, slightly salty and with a firm, callous consistency and slight astringency. It has a myrtle aroma. It can be stored at room temperature (14/18°C) for about four days, even in the myrtle branches themselves.
